Switzerland Iraq Turkey city Istanbul President 2020 Switzerland Iraq Turkey city Istanbul

Returning to Istanbul, a Place of Competing Identities

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AT 9:05 A.M. on the 10th of November, a hush fell over the leaden turbulence of the Bosporus. All activity on the strait ceased.

Coast Guard ships, ferries and caiques, like the younger members of a tribe of large marine mammals, drew close in a circle.

Behind them, a Turkish destroyer kept vigil, the blue of its gunmetal merging with the strait’s frigid waters. A red-bottomed freighter marked with the words “Iraqi line” hulked in the background.

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